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Mark Moxon's Travel Writing

India: Kovalam

The Hotel Sea Face on Howah Beach
The Hotel Sea Face on Howah Beach

Kovalam has something of an image problem, at least among backpackers, who think it's far too touristy and is probably best left to people who like egg and chips for dinner and their culture packaged up and delivered along with a rep. This is rather unfair, because although Kovalam does have a slight air of package holiday about it, it's still a charming little place with much to recommend, particularly if you're looking for a restful and stress-free spot for a few days before moving on elsewhere.

Fishermen readying their boats on Hawah Beach
Fishermen readying their boats on Hawah Beach

Beach Fishing

Fishermen getting ready to launch the boat
Getting ready to launch the boat

One of the unexpected benefits of staying at the Hotel Sea Face was that the pool overlooked the beach, which meant we were treated each morning to the sight of the fishermen dragging in their catch. As entertainment goes, it was even good enough to clear the grumpy cobwebs from my morning mind, which is really saying something.

Fishermen launching their boat
Launching the boat

On the Beach

Coiled ropes on Hawah Beach
Coiled ropes on Hawah Beach

Kovalam, however, isn't notorious for its fishermen, but for the gangs of young men who stroll along the beach, desperate to catch a glimpse of pale, western flesh. My first exposure to this was in Kochi, when I popped out early one morning to take a picture of the beach, or, to be more accurate, a picture of the amazing amount of rubbish strewn along the sand.

Fishermen laying out their nets to dry on Hawah Beach
Fishermen laying out their nets to dry