Skip to navigation

Mark Moxon's Travel Writing

Nicaragua: Granada to Isla de Ometepe

Peta soaking up the sun on the ferry to Ometepe
Peta soaking up the sun on the ferry to Ometepe

We'd heard some pretty nasty things about the twice-weekly public ferry from Granada to Isla de Ometepe, and to be honest, I was a bit scared. Lago de Nicaragua, the huge freshwater lake that the ferry crosses to get to the island, is famous for its strong winds, and as any sailor knows, strong winds mean big waves. And big waves and passenger ferries do not mix well, particularly when I'm on them.

The ferry, with first class on the top deck and second class below
The ferry, with first class on the top deck and second class below

Two Deckchairs, Please

We had a great view of Ometepe from the starboard deck
We had a great view of Ometepe from the starboard deck

It turns out that the secret to enjoying the ferry trip from Granada to Ometepe is to hire a deckchair. There are two levels on the ferry – first class is on the upper deck, while second class is on the lower deck – and as foreigners are only allowed to buy first class tickets, you have a choice between the open deck at the back, or the air-conditioned cabin that comes complete with padded benches and a blaring television that simply won't shut up. If it's a nice day then the open deck is much more enticing, and if you get in there quick, you can hire a deckchair for the entire journey for just over a dollar.

Volcán Concepción, the bigger of Ometepe's two volcanoes
Volcán Concepción, the bigger of Ometepe's two volcanoes
Isla de Ometepe
Isla de Ometepe
Mark relaxing in his shady deckchair
Relaxing in my shady deckchair
Sunset over Lago de Nicaragua
Sunset over Lago de Nicaragua
Looking back towards Granada and Isla Zapatera at sunset
Looking back towards Granada and Isla Zapatera at sunset
Hotel Central in Altagracia
Hotel Central in Altagracia