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Mark Moxon's Travel Writing

Panama: Bocas del Toro

Old Bank, Isla Bastimentos
Old Bank, Isla Bastimentos

There are two main types of Caribbean island, as far as I can make out. The first is the classic desert island, with its golden sand beaches, coral reefs just off the shore, corn-blue seas and palm trees dangling over the water; we've already enjoyed that particular vibe on Caye Caulker in Belize and Little Corn Island in Nicaragua. The second type is the rainforest and mangrove island, where it's more about trees, biodiversity and greenery rather than paradise picture postcard shots; it's this second type that we've been enjoying in the Bocos del Toro archipelago.

A pier in Old Bank
A pier in Old Bank
A red frog in the grounds of Beverly's Hill
A red frog in the grounds of Beverly's Hill

The Islands of Bocas

Parque Simón Bolívar in Bocas del Toro town
Parque Simón Bolívar in Bocas del Toro town

There are six main islands in the Bocas archipelago, among a scattering of tiny islets, but only three of them have any sizeable facilities for tourism. The main one, Isla Colón, contains the airport and Bocas del Toro town, and it's a predictably boisterous seaside town with lots of booming music, a mushrooming party hostel scene, a large number of restaurants, and plenty of traffic; our visit to the islands coincided with carnival season, which stretches all across South and Central America (though it's most famous in Brazil, of course), and Bocas town joins the party with gusto, which only adds to the noise and drunkenness levels in town. It's a fun place to visit, and it was interesting watching the drunks trying to beat the crap out of each other in the main park, but I'm glad we didn't end up staying there, as it's hardly a restful spot. That said, the restaurants that stick out into the ocean on stilts are pleasant venues for a spot of lunch, and the island does have some quieter beaches away from the town, but the best part of Bocas town is leaving it behind on a water taxi and heading to its more peaceful neighbours.

A water taxi arriving in Old Bank
A water taxi arriving in Old Bank
The main road in Old Bank is no more than a pavement
The main road in Old Bank is no more than a pavement
The Roots Restaurant in Old Bank
The Roots Restaurant in Old Bank
The skyline of Old Bank
The skyline of Old Bank