Here is a list of all my travel writing, arranged in chronological order (or, strictly speaking, the order in which they should be read, which is not quite the same). Some articles appear more than once, which indicates that they cover more than one time period. It's a good way to see how the mind of a long-term traveller changes with time, and it's also interesting to see how my writing develops over the years. Compare the first few articles with the last few, and I hope you'll see a change for the better...
Australia
- Sydney (7 November 1995)
- Sydney to Melbourne (9 November 1995)
- Melbourne (12 March 1996)
- An English View of Australia (27 November 1995)
- The Pig Hunt (3 January 1996)
- Lawbreaker (8 January 1996)
- Dock of the Bay (12 January 1996)
- Hobart (12 January 1996)
- Cygnet (16 January 1996)
- Bicheno (18 January 1996)
- Launceston (19 January 1996)
- George Town (22 January 1996)
- Launceston to Port Arthur (26 January 1996)
- Buying a Car (7 March 1996)
- Session Musicians (7 March 1996)
- Australian Greetings (12 March 1996)
- Great Ocean Road (13 March 1996)
- The Grampians (15 March 1996)
- Mt Gambier (16 March 1996)
- The Coorong (17 March 1996)
- Adelaide (21 March 1996)
- World's End (25 March 1996)
- Flinders Ranges (27 March 1996)
- Nullarbor Desert (30 March 1996)
- Esperance (1 April 1996)
- Albany (3 April 1996)
- Pemberton (5 April 1996)
- Cape Leeuwin (6 April 1996)
- Drop Bears (12 April 1996)
- Kalgoorlie (20 April 1996)
- Rottnest Island (28 May 1996)
- Perth (16 June 1996)
- The Baby Ward (17 June 1996)
- Drive-through Heaven (18 June 1996)
- Nambung (Pinnacles Desert) (20 June 1996)
- Top-up, Sir? (20 June 1996)
- Kalbarri (23 June 1996)
- Shark Bay (25 June 1996)
- Carnarvon (26 June 1996)
- Coral Bay (27 June 1996)
- Cape Range (29 June 1996)
- Nanutarra Roadhouse (30 June 1996)
- Karijini (Hammersley Range) (7 July 1996)
- Start of the Breakdown (3 July 1996)
- Millstream-Chichester (10 July 1996)
- Cleaverville Beach (13 July 1996)
- Pilbara Bushwalk (21 July 1996)
- Port Hedland (22 July 1996)
- Broome (25 July 1996)
- The Kimberley (25 July 1996)
- Kununurra (29 July 1996)
- Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) (31 July 1996)
- Nitmiluk (Katherine Gorge) (3 August 1996)
- Kakadu (8 August 1996)
- Darwin (12 August 1996)
- Litchfield (14 August 1996)
- Elsey (17 August 1996)
- Travelling Possessions (18 August 1996)
- Daly Waters (20 August 1996)
- Alice Springs (20 August 1996)
- Macdonnell Ranges (Western) (22 August 1996)
- Macdonnell Ranges (Eastern) (24 August 1996)
- Watarrka (King's Canyon) (26 August 1996)
- Uluru-Kata Tjuta (Ayers Rock) (29 August 1996)
- Coober Pedy (1 September 1996)
- Selling a Car (15 September 1996)
New Zealand
- Auckland (18 November 1996)
- Rangitoto (3 November 1996)
- Finding Wheels (18 November 1996)
- Wellington (26 November 1996)
- Low Patch (27 November 1996)
- Down the Casino (2 December 1996)
- Christchurch (3 December 1996)
- Dunedin (7 December 1996)
- Southern Scenic Route (East) (10 December 1996)
- Christchurch (18 December 1996)
- Peel Forest (18 December 1996)
- Twizel (19 December 1996)
- Mt Cook (22 December 1996)
- A Glacial Christmas (25 December 1996)
- Queenstown (26 December 1996)
- Lake Ponderings (28 December 1996)
- Kepler Track (1 January 1997)
- Hollyford-Pyke Route (9 January 1997)
- Bush Bastards (6 January 1997)
- Milford (10 January 1997)
- Southern Scenic Route (West) (11 January 1997)
- Queenstown (13 January 1997)
- Routeburn-Greenstone Track (17 January 1997)
- West Coast (South Island) (21 January 1997)
- Arthur's Pass (23 January 1997)
- Christchurch (31 January 1997)
- Nelson (31 January 1997)
- Catchpool Valley (3 February 1997)
- Taranaki (9 February 1997)
- Tongariro (15 February 1997)
- Taupo (17 February 1997)
- Mahia Beach (18 February 1997)
- Coromandel (23 February 1997)
- Northland (1 March 1997)
- Submarine Car (1 March 1997)
- Whangarei (2 March 1997)
- Kiwi Trivia (2 March 1997)
- Learning to Dive (27 March 1997)
French Polynesia
- Anatomy of a Yacht (24 April 1997)
- The Strange World of Sailing (1 May 1997)
- Sailing to French Polynesia (13 May 1997)
- Gambier Islands (16 May 1997)
- Gambier Islands (Mangareva) (4 June 1997)
- Cooking on Board (18 May 1997)
- The Sociability of Yachties (18 May 1997)
- Rikitea Harbour (26 May 1997)
- Gambier Islands (Southeast) (23 May 1997)
- Gambier Islands (East) (15 June 1997)
- Man vs Cyclone Kelly (18 June 1997)
- Amanu (26 June 1997)
- Amanu Street Scene (26 June 1997)
- Makemo (2 July 1997)
- Escape from the Yacht (5 July 1997)
- Bushwalking in Tahiti (19 July 1997)
- Tahiti (22 July 1997)
Australia
- Brisbane (30 July 1997)
- Cairns (13 August 1997)
- Feeling Old in Cairns (2 August 1997)
- Great Barrier Reef (8 August 1997)
- Hinchinbrook Island (19 August 1997)
- Townsville (20 August 1997)
- Magnetic Island (25 August 1997)
- Fraser Island (4 September 1997)
- Noosa (8 September 1997)
- Familiarity Breeds (13 September 1997)
- Thoughts on Leaving (13 September 1997)
Indonesia
- Kuta (14 September 1997)
- Balinese Public Transport (16 September 1997)
- Learning Bahasa Indonesia (16 September 1997)
- Curse of the 60-Day Visa (17 September 1997)
- Ubud (18 September 1997)
- Types of Traveller (18 September 1997)
- Ampenan (19 September 1997)
- Gunung Rinjani (25 September 1997)
- How to Survive Indonesia (25 September 1997)
- Indonesian Peace and Quiet (25 September 1997)
- Sumbawa (26 September 1997)
- Labuanbajo (28 September 1997)
- Bajawa (29 September 1997)
- Indonesian Habits (30 September 1997)
- Moni (1 October 1997)
- Loneliness on the Road (1 October 1997)
- Maumere to Ujung Pandang (3 October 1997)
- Ujung Pandang (4 October 1997)
- Bada Valley (11 October 1997)
- Wild Mood Swings (12 October 1997)
- Togian Islands (16 October 1997)
- Poso (18 October 1997)
- The Torajan People (23 October 1997)
- Rantepao (23 October 1997)
- A Torajan Funeral (21 October 1997)
- Unwell in Tana Toraja (22 October 1997)
- Ujung Pandang to Surabaya (24 October 1997)
- Surabaya to Yogyakarta (25 October 1997)
- McDonald's, Indonesian-Style (3 November 1997)
- Yogyakarta (3 November 1997)
- Borobudur (27 October 1997)
- Prambanan (30 October 1997)
- Dieng Plateau (5 November 1997)
- Thoughts on Leaving (12 November 1997)
Singapore
- Singapore City (22 November 1997)
- A Day at the Golf Course (23 November 1997)
Malaysia
- Pre-Malaysian Apathy (24 November 1997)
- Melaka (27 November 1997)
- Malaysian Politics (26 November 1997)
- Kuala Lumpur (30 November 1997)
- Rainforest Statistics (8 December 1997)
- Taman Negara (8 December 1997)
- Walking the Rainforest (8 December 1997)
- Meeting the Orang Asli (8 December 1997)
- Cameron Highlands (12 December 1997)
- The Company of Travellers (12 December 1997)
- The Cavalier Roundhead (16 December 1997)
- Pulau Pangkor (16 December 1997)
- Georgetown (19 December 1997)
- Thoughts on Leaving (19 December 1997)
Thailand
- The Currency Crisis (19 December 1997)
- The Thai Language (19 December 1997)
- Hat Yai to Phuket (20 December 1997)
- Ko Samui (5 January 1998)
- Beach Bums of Thailand (5 January 1998)
- Bangkok (10 January 1998)
- Chiang Mai (15 January 1998)
- Thoughts on Leaving (18 January 1998)
India
- Thoughts Before Arriving (18 January 1998)
- Calcutta (21 January 1998)
- Puri (30 January 1998)
- Hinduism and Indian History (25 January 1998)
- Konark (24 January 1998)
- Travellers in India (29 January 1998)
- Religious Tolerance (30 January 1998)
- Hyderabad (4 February 1998)
- Golconda (1 February 1998)
- Hyderabadi Conversations (4 February 1998)
- Music on the Brain (4 February 1998)
- The Indian Film Industry (4 February 1998)
- Chennai (8 February 1998)
- Buying Music in India (7 February 1998)
- Mamallapuram (11 February 1998)
- Slowing Down (10 February 1998)
- Pondicherry (12 February 1998)
- Trichy (15 February 1998)
- Thanjavur (14 February 1998)
- I'll Have a Limca, Please (13 February 1998)
- Madurai (17 February 1998)
- Kodaikanal (26 February 1998)
- The Sound of Indian Politics (26 February 1998)
- Travellers' Opinions of India (25 February 1998)
- Madurai (27 February 1998)
- Kollam to Alappuzha (28 February 1998)
- Kochi (2 March 1998)
- James Bond in India (1 March 1998)
- Mysore (4 March 1998)
- Bangalore (7 March 1998)
- The Post Office (7 March 1998)
- Reflections in Bangalore (5 March 1998)
- Kama Sutra (7 March 1998)
- Hampi (16 March 1998)
- The Holi Festival (14 March 1998)
- Bijapur (18 March 1998)
- Aurangabad (20 March 1998)
- Ellora (19 March 1998)
- Daultabad (19 March 1998)
- Ajanta (21 March 1998)
- Cricket and India (22 March 1998)
- Mandu (25 March 1998)
- Sanchi (26 March 1998)
- Bhopal (27 March 1998)
- Thoughts After Three Months (28 March 1998)
Nepal
- Annapurna Circuit (22 April 1998)
- Annapurna Circuit (Stage 1) (22 April 1998)
- Annapurna Circuit (Stage 2) (22 April 1998)
- Pokhara (29 April 1998)
- Kathmandu (4 May 1998)
- Floundering in Kathmandu (3 May 1998)
- Death in the Afternoon (6 May 1998)
- Janakpur (6 May 1998)
India
- The Toy Train (12 May 1998)
- Darjeeling (12 May 1998)
- The Power of Authority (13 May 1998)
- Death of the Ganges (16 May 1998)
- Varanasi (20 May 1998)
- Death on the Platform (20 May 1998)
- Air Coolers (22 May 1998)
- Gwalior (23 May 1998)
- Agra (25 May 1998)
- Fatehpur Sikri (26 May 1998)
- Service Station Hell (26 May 1998)
- Jaipur (28 May 1998)
- Pushkar (2 June 1998)
- Udaipur (5 June 1998)
- Louis Armstrong (5 June 1998)
- Bhavnagar (8 June 1998)
- Alang (7 June 1998)
- Palitana (9 June 1998)
- Hindi Pop (19 June 1998)
- Diu (14 June 1998)
- Lies, Damned Lies (15 June 1998)
- Mt Abu (18 June 1998)
- Indian Television (15 June 1998)
- Yogi and Babaji (20 June 1998)
- Jodhpur (20 June 1998)
- Pigs Over Jaisalmer (26 June 1998)
- Jaisalmer (26 June 1998)
- Camel, One Previous Owner (25 June 1998)
- The Thar Desert (25 June 1998)
- Bikaner (27 June 1998)
- Nuclear Testing (27 June 1998)
- Amritsar (1 July 1998)
- Surviving India (28 June 1998)
- Schrödinger's Cat (30 June 1998)
- Dharamsala (9 July 1998)
- The Dogs of Bhagsu (9 July 1998)
- Delhi (15 July 1998)
Morocco
- Arriving in Morocco (6 June 2002)
- Marrakech (7 June 2002)
- Car Rental Scam (7 June 2002)
- Rock Men of the Hammada (8 June 2002)
- Aït Benhaddou (8 June 2002)
- Morocco, German-Style (8 June 2002)
- Drâa Valley (9 June 2002)
- The Hammada (10 June 2002)
- Merzouga (12 June 2002)
- The Sahara by Camel (14 June 2002)
- Driving in a Sandstorm (15 June 2002)
- Space Invaders (15 June 2002)
- Desert Food (16 June 2002)
- Ouarzazate (16 June 2002)
Senegal
- Dakar (9 October 2002)
- Île de Gorée (10 October 2002)
- Homesickness (11 October 2002)
- Senegal v Nigeria (12 October 2002)
- Unstable Continent (13 October 2002)
- St-Louis (14 October 2002)
- The Language Barrier (14 October 2002)
- Toubab Dialao (18 October 2002)
- Senegalese Transport (19 October 2002)
- Joal-Fadiout (19 October 2002)
- Palmarin (20 October 2002)
- Djiffer (21 October 2002)
- Foundiougne (22 October 2002)
- Kaolack (23 October 2002)
- King of the Café (23 October 2002)
The Gambia
- Banjul (24 October 2002)
- Bumster Trouble (26 October 2002)
- Fajara (27 October 2002)
- Tendaba (28 October 2002)
- Kiang West (29 October 2002)
- Tendaba to Jangjang Bureh (30 October 2002)
- Travelling Cushion (30 October 2002)
- London Calling (31 October 2002)
- Jangjang Bureh (1 November 2002)
- One Pen, Gambian-style (1 November 2002)
- Blister Bug (2 November 2002)
- Basse Santa Su (3 November 2002)
- Basse Santa Su to Tambacounda (3 November 2002)
- Thoughts on Leaving (3 November 2002)
Senegal
- Tambacounda (5 November 2002)
- Thoughts on Leaving (6 November 2002)
Mali
- Tambacounda to Kayes (7 November 2002)
- Kayes (8 November 2002)
- Kayes to Bamako (8 November 2002)
- A Serious Loss (8 November 2002)
- Black Music (8 November 2002)
- Bamako (12 November 2002)
- Saturday Night at the Movies (9 November 2002)
- Mopti (14 November 2002)
- Mopti to Timbuktu (17 November 2002)
- Marmalade! (17 November 2002)
- Timbuktu (18 November 2002)
- The Waiting Game (18 November 2002)
- Camel Trekking in Timbuktu (20 November 2002)
- Down on the Upside (18 November 2002)
- Tuareg Tea (22 November 2002)
- Bloody Nora (23 November 2002)
- Timbuktu to Gao (25 November 2002)
- The Floating Market (25 November 2002)
- Gao (26 November 2002)
- Gao to Mopti (26 November 2002)
- Sahel Food (28 November 2002)
- Djenné (29 November 2002)
- The Best Laid Plans (30 November 2002)
- A Financial Perspective (1 December 2002)
- Remember Me? (1 December 2002)
- The Right Staff (2 December 2002)
- Dogon Country (7 December 2002)
- Thoughts on Leaving (9 December 2002)
Burkina Faso
- Friendly in French (11 December 2002)
- Ouagadougou (12 December 2002)
- Thoughts on Leaving (13 December 2002)
Ghana
- The Struggle into Ghana (15 December 2002)
- Kumasi (16 December 2002)
- The Road to Jesus (16 December 2002)
- The Cedi Shuffle (16 December 2002)
- The Auditor-General (19 December 2002)
- Accra (20 December 2002)
- Kokrobite (21 December 2002)
- Turtle Wars (22 December 2002)
- Trucked Off (23 December 2002)
- A Change of Heart (23 December 2002)
- Rastafarian Christmas (26 December 2002)
- Kakum (29 December 2002)
- Down the Den (31 December 2002)
- Drink in a Bag (1 January 2003)
- Cape Coast (4 January 2003)
- Elmina (5 January 2003)
- The Prempeh Room (5 January 2003)
- Nzulezo (7 January 2003)
- Axim (8 January 2003)
- Busua (10 January 2003)
- Visiting Jimmy Moxon (16 January 2003)
- Pouring Petrol on the Flames (17 January 2003)
- Thoughts on Leaving (19 January 2003)
Cyprus
- Pafos (19 February 2003)
- Troodos (20 February 2003)
- Kakopetria (21 February 2003)
- Mt Olympos (21 February 2003)
- War Zone Accommodation (22 February 2003)
- Nicosia (22 February 2003)
- Agia Napa (23 February 2003)
- Larnaka (24 February 2003)
- Kourion (25 February 2003)
- Pissouri (26 February 2003)
- Polis (28 February 2003)
- Cypriot Architecture (1 March 2003)
- Place Names in Cyprus (2 March 2003)
- A Brief History of Cyprus (3 March 2003)
- Thoughts on Leaving (3 March 2003)
Cuba
- Heaving on a Jet Plane (5 March 2005)
- Havana (6 March 2005)
- Driving in Cuba (8 March 2005)
- Playa Girón (8 March 2005)
- Trinidad (12 March 2005)
- The Man in the Red Hat (13 March 2005)
- Camagüey (15 March 2005)
- Música de la Casa (15 March 2005)
- Cayo Santa María (17 March 2005)
- Remedios (18 March 2005)
- Santa Clara (18 March 2005)
- A Funny Sort of Socialism (19 March 2005)
- Thoughts on Leaving (19 March 2005)
India
- The High Commission (15 February 2007)
- Falling into Place (11 March 2007)
- Varkala (13 March 2007)
- Hippy Heaven (13 March 2007)
- The Shirt off My Back (13 March 2007)
- Lagging Behind (14 March 2007)
- Blowing the Budget (14 March 2007)
- Beer, What Beer? (14 March 2007)
- Cash Card Crisis (15 March 2007)
- The Keralan Backwaters (17 March 2007)
- The Beer Shop (15 March 2007)
- Kochi (20 March 2007)
- Munnar (22 March 2007)
- Periyar (24 March 2007)
- Ringing the Changes (26 March 2007)
- Kovalam (27 March 2007)
- Thoughts on Leaving (28 March 2007)
