I took my time walking the Annapurna Circuit, and I was really glad I did. There are people who rush round it like there's no tomorrow, but not only does this increase the risk of getting Acute Mountain Sickness, it also misses the point. Mountain life in this part of the world is all about quiet contemplation and careful footwork, and while you might be able to shoehorn a jog round Annapurna into a hasty two-week holiday, I recommend three weeks as a much healthier and more relaxed proposition. If you really want to squeeze an Annapurna trek into a shorter period, then the shorter but beautiful Annapurna Sanctuary Trek is a good option, as is the Jomsom Trek (this being the section of the Circuit that lies to the west of the Thorung Phedi pass, from Pokhara to Muktinath).
Here's the route and itinerary I took. It's worth noting that I had a rest day in Bagarchap on day 5 because I caught a nasty giardia infection, and I took two days off in Manang and an extra overnight stay in Ledar because I found the effects of the altitude quite strenuous and I didn't want to risk of getting AMS. If you're a confident walker and don't have the luxury of too much time in which to savour the Himalayas, you could dump four of those rest days, but you must have at least one rest day in Manang, to acclimatise to the altitude. If you don't then you're seriously increasing the chance of getting AMS, which can be fatal. People have died by rushing up to the pass at Thorung Phedi; it's really not worth the risk.
| Day | Walk | km |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Pokhara to Besisahar | Bus |
| 2 | Besisahar to Bahundanda | 18 |
| 3 | Bahundanda to Chyanje | 12 |
| 4 | Chyanje to Bagarchap | 15 |
| 5 | Rest day in Bagarchap | - |
| 6 | Bagarchap to Pisang | 16 |
| 7 | Pisang to Manang | 12 |
| 8 | Rest day in Manang | - |
| 9 | Rest day in Manang | - |
| 10 | Manang to Yak Kharka | 9 |
| 11 | Yak Kharka to Ledar | 3 |
| 12 | Ledar to Thorung Phedi | 5 |
| 13 | Thorung Phedi to Muktinath | 13 |
| 14 | Rest day in Muktinath | - |
| 15 | Muktinath to Kagbeni | 10 |
| 16 | Kagbeni to Marpha | 16 |
| 17 | Rest day in Marpha | - |
| 18 | Marpha to Kalopani | 19 |
| 19 | Kalopani to Tatopani | 24 |
| 20 | Tatopani to Ghorepani | 15 |
| 21 | Ghorepani to Pokhara | 16 |
| Total distance | 203 | |
I should point out that measuring distances on the Annapurna Circuit is pretty difficult; there's precious little information available on the ground, and there's no handy leaflet or map you can pick up in Nepal (or at least there wasn't when I did it). However, there is one good source of information which contains pretty much everything you need to know, and I heartily recommend it; it's called The Annapurna Circuit and Sanctuary and it's published by YetiZone. The website is brilliant too, and contains a detailed day-by-day route description as well as information on recommended maps, places to stay and so on. If you're considering walking in Annapurna, make sure you check it out.