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Mark Moxon's Travel Writing

Taman Negara: Introduction

I'm not sure I'd recommend tropical rainforest for those looking for a traditional walking experience; there are no views, the terrain is horribly difficult to walk through, there are hordes of nasty beasts waiting to attack you, it rains constantly and the humidity makes any exercise challenging, but one thing's for sure: you'll come out the other end with some great tales and a serious sense of achievement, and that's why I reckon that rainforest walking is something every serious walker should try at least once.

Route details

Walking from the park headquarters at Kuala Tahan to the fishing lodge at Kuala Perkai takes it out of you; for example, the 17km from Bumbun Kumbang to Kuala Perkai took me nine hours. There are also no maps and not that many signs (though there are enough to keep you going), so there is quite a chance of getting lost if you lose the plot. Happily the directions are pretty simple: keep the river on your right and you can't go too wrong.

Day Walk km
1 Kuala Tahan to Bumbun Kumbang 11
2 Bumbun Kumbang to Kuala Perkai 17
3 Rest day in Kuala Perkai -
4 Rest day in Kuala Perkai -
5 Kuala Perkai to Bumbun Kumbang 17
6 Bumbun Kumbang to Kuala Tahan 11
Total distance 56

There are a number of other walks in Taman Negara, but the longer ones require a guide and cost a fair amount. It's well worth getting out into the forest for at least one night, if possible; the wildlife has to be seen to be believed.